Catch Surf,
I am a former aspiring pro surfer recently turned Doctor of Physical Therapy. Often patients who surf, friends and the occasional in town professional surfer asks me how to best advance their surfing. Typically their questions revolve around what exercises they should be doing and whether or not skating and balance boarding will help to quicken their advancements.
Consistently above all other boarding activities I find myself recommending that they try “The One” or the “54 Beater”. The reason for the recommendation is based upon the results of studies that I have read in regards to neuro-muscular learning (i.e. how the brain and body learn and best practice new and novel tasks). Although none of the research databases contain studies specifically about surfers, many of the results can be applied to surfing.
Reason one to ride Catch Surf products:
Most surfers think that repetitively surfing the same style board as much as possible will help them to learn new maneuvers most quickly. When surfers ride the same equipment frequently the higher level motor learning centers may not be as active as someone who rides different equipment regularly. When the surfer is performing similar maneuvers reflexively, motor learning / progression occurs at a slower rate.
The brain contains billions of neurons dedicated to learning new physical tasks. If the rider does not challenge themselves with new and novel forms of board riding, the brain will actually devote less physical space and energy into the task at hand. Challenging oneself with new tasks on novel may lead to rapid expansion of these cortical (brain) areas 1.
Reason 2:
Riding a board finless is much more difficult than riding a board with fins. Because the balance demands for finless surfing are so intense the rider must develop increased body (somato-sensory) awareness. Increased balance demands lead to the mind constantly scanning the body in order to make sure that the rider’s center of mass is located appropriately above the board’s surface – a process known as perceptual refinement 2. The rider then may realize that slight changes in foot and body position can translate into better landing of difficult spins and airs.
Reason 3:
By this point in time every surfer has become familiar with the importance of core strength. Performing core exercises in the gym all day will lead to an increase in gross overall strength but probably won’t in and of itself translate into balance gains with surfing. Riding a finless board promotes dynamic core strength. Dynamic core strength means being able to contact and effectively use core muscles while balancing on an unstable surface.
To understand the importance of dynamic core strength just watch Jordy Smith or Mick Fanning surf. Pay attention to how sturdy their trunks are over their feet. Because their cores are so stable their minds may devote more energy into thinking about the upcoming section and less about where their body is in relation to the board and wave.
1. Rosenkranz K, Rothwell JC: Differences between the effects of three plasticity inducing protocols on the organization of the human motor cortex. Eur J Neurosci. 2006; 23:822-829.
2. Feltz DL, Landers DM: The effects of mental practice on motor skill
learning and performance: a meta analysis. Journal of Sports Psychology;1983:5:25-57.
In some ways you could literally say that I prescribe your products to those who surf. I rode The One for years until recently when the airlines decided to add their own channels to my board thus rendering it unseaworthy.
If it helps you at all, please feel free to use any of the above for your purposes. You guys are ahead of the times, keep it up! I will be in San Clemente in late May, hope to see you all in the water.
~Dr. Brett Carey D.P.T.
This is a cool picture of a ghost riding Bill Bryan’s Beater board at the Wedge! This picture was taken by Alex Verharst, he gets a lot of sweet pictures from the Wedge, so make sure to check out his website !!!
